Linear current regulator for LEDs on a transistor.  Current stabilizer for two output LEDs.  Universal adjustable model

Linear current regulator for LEDs on a transistor. Current stabilizer for two output LEDs. Universal adjustable model

At present, it is difficult to imagine car tuning without LED lamps. But sometimes their installation is complicated by the fact that they burn out. To avoid this situation, you can turn on a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands in the network. The article provides examples of microcircuits by which it can be made.

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Schemes of stabilizers and current regulators

Everyone knows that LED bulbs need twelve volts of power. In the auto network, this value can reach up to 15 V. LED elements very sensitive, such jumps are reflected negatively on them. LED lamps may burn out or shine poorly (flash, lose brightness, etc.).

In order for the LEDs to last longer, drivers (resistors) are included in the car's electrical network. In case of instability in the network, devices are installed that maintain a constant value. There are several simple chips, according to which you can make a voltage stabilizer with your own hands. All components included in the chain can be purchased from specialized stores. With a basic knowledge of electrical engineering, it will not be difficult to make devices.

On Krenka

In order to construct the simplest stabilizer do-it-yourself voltage of 12 volts, you will need a microcircuit with a consumption of 12 V. In this case, adjustable stabilizer voltage 12 V LM317. It can function in the mains, where the input parameter is up to 40 V. In order for the device to work stably, it is necessary to provide cooling.

The current stabilizer on the LM317 requires a small current of up to 8 mA to operate, and given value usually stays the same, even with a large current flowing through the LM317 bank or when the input value changes. This is implemented using the R3 component.

You can use the element R2, but the limits will be small. With the resistance of LM317 unchanged, the current flowing through the device will also be stable (the author of the video is Created in the Garage).

The input value for the LM317 roll can be up to 8 mA or more. Using this microcircuit, you can come up with a current stabilizer for DRL. This device can act as a load in the on-board network or a source of electricity when recharging. Making a simple voltage regulator LM317 is not difficult.

On two transistors

At the moment, stabilizing devices for the on-board network of a 12 V car, developed using two transistors, are popular. This microcircuit is used as a voltage regulator for DRL.

Resistor R2 is a current-distributing element. As the current in the network increases, the voltage increases. If it reaches a value from 0.5 to 0.6 V, the VT1 element opens. Opening the VT1 component closes the VT2 element. As a result, the current passing through VT2 starts to decrease. Can be used with VT2 field-effect transistor Mosfet.

The VD1 element is included in the circuit when the values ​​​​are in the range from 8 to 15 V and are so large that the transistor may fail. At powerful transistor readings in the on-board network of about 20 V are acceptable. Do not forget that the Mosfet transistor will open if the readings at the gate are 2 V.

If you use a universal rectifier as a charger for a battery or other tasks, then it is enough to use a resistor R1 and a transistor.

On an operational amplifier (on an op-amp)

A voltage stabilizer for LEDs based on an op amp is assembled when it is necessary to create a device that will operate in an extended range. In the case under consideration, R7 is the element that will set the rectified current. Using the DA2.2 operational amplifier, you can increase the voltage level in the current-setting component. The task of component DA 2.1 is to control reference voltage.

When creating the circuit, please note that it is designed for 3A, so more current is needed, which must be supplied to the XP2 connector. In addition, the operability of all components of this device should be ensured.

The made stabilizing device for the car must have a generator, the role of which is played by REF198. To properly configure the device, the slider of the resistor R1 must be set to the upper position, and the resistor R3 must be set to the required value of the rectified current 3A. To extinguish possible excitations, the elements R,2 R4 and C2 are used.

On a switching regulator chip

If a rectifier for a car must provide high efficiency in the network, it is advisable to use pulse components, creating a switching voltage regulator. The MAX771 circuit is popular.

The switching current stabilizer is characterized by an output power of 15 watts. Elements R1 and R2 share the indicators of the circuit at the output. If the divided voltage exceeds the reference voltage, the rectifier automatically reduces the output value. Otherwise, the device will increase the output parameter.

The assembly of this device is advisable if the level exceeds 16 V. The components of R3 are current. To eliminate the high load drop across this resistor, an op amp should be included in the circuit.

Conclusion

We have considered voltage stabilizers on various components. These schemes can be made more complex, increasing speed, improving other indicators. You can use ready-made microcircuits, which you can always improve with your own hands, creating devices designed to perform specific tasks.

LED lighting is becoming more and more a part of our lives. Capricious light bulbs fail and beauty immediately fades. And all because LEDs cannot work simply by being plugged into the mains. They must be connected through stabilizers (drivers). The latter prevent voltage surges, component failure, overheating, etc. About this and how to assemble a simple circuit with their own hands, and will be discussed in the article.

Stabilizer selection

In the on-board network of a car, the working power is approximately 13 V, while most LEDs are suitable for 12 V. Therefore, a voltage stabilizer is usually installed, the output of which is 12 V. Thus, normal conditions are provided for the operation of lighting equipment without emergency and premature failure.

At this stage, amateurs are faced with the problem of choice: there are many designs published, but not all work well. You need to choose the one that is worthy of your favorite vehicle and, in addition:

  • will really work;
  • ensure the safety and security of lighting equipment.

The simplest DIY voltage stabilizer

If you have no desire to buy a ready-made device, then you should learn how to make a simple stabilizer yourself. It is difficult to make a switching stabilizer in a car with your own hands. That is why it is worth taking a closer look at the selection of amateur schemes and designs. linear stabilizers voltage. The simplest and most common version of a stabilizer consists of a finished microcircuit and a resistor (resistance).

It is easiest to make a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands on a microcircuit. Assembly of parts (see figure below) is carried out on a perforated panel or a universal printed circuit board.

Scheme of a 5 amp power supply with a voltage regulator from 1.5 to 12 V.

For self-assembly of such a device, you will need the following parts:

  • plateau size 35*20 mm ;
  • chip LD1084;
  • diode bridge RS407 or any small diode for reverse current;
  • power supply, consisting of a transistor and two resistances. Designed to turn off the rings when you turn on the high or low beam.

In this case, the LEDs (in the amount of 3 pcs.) Are connected in series with a current-limiting resistor that equalizes the current. Such a set, in turn, is connected in parallel with the next same set of LEDs.

Stabilizer for LEDs on the L7812 chip in a car

The current stabilizer for LEDs can be assembled on the basis of a 3-pin DC voltage regulator (L7812 series). The wall-mounted device is excellent for power supply, as LED strips, and individual light bulbs in the car.

Necessary components for assembling such a circuit:

  • chip L7812;
  • capacitor 330 microfarad 16 V;
  • capacitor 100 microfarad 16 V;
  • 1 amp rectifier diode (1N4001, for example, or a similar Schottky diode);
  • wires;
  • heat shrink 3 mm.

There are actually many options.

Wiring diagram based on LM2940CT-12.0

The body of the stabilizer can be made from almost any material except wood. When using more than ten LEDs, it is recommended to attach an aluminum heatsink to the stabilizer.

Maybe someone has tried it and will say that you can easily do without unnecessary troubles by directly connecting the LEDs. But in this case, the latter will most of the time be in adverse conditions, therefore, they will not last long or even burn out. But tuning expensive cars results in a fairly large amount.

And about the described schemes, their main advantage is simplicity. It does not require special skills and abilities to make. However, if the circuit is too complicated, then it becomes not rational to assemble it with your own hands.

Conclusion

The ideal option for connecting LEDs is through. The device balances the fluctuations of the network, with its use current surges will no longer be terrible. In this case, the requirements for the power supply must be observed. This will allow you to adjust your stabilizer to the network.

The device should provide maximum reliability, stability and stability, preferably for many years. The cost of assembled devices depends on where all the necessary parts will be bought.

In the video - for LEDs.

Sometimes motorists need to limit the battery charge current, check a particular power source, or pass voltage through diodes. To accomplish one of these tasks, it makes sense to use a current stabilizer for LEDs with your own hands. You will learn more about what schemes exist for developing this device below.

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Schemes of stabilizers and current regulators

Current sources have nothing to do with voltage sources. The purpose of the first is to stabilize the output parameter, as well as a possible change in the output voltage. This happens so that the current level is the same all the time. Current sources are used to power LED lamps, charge batteries in cars, etc. If you have a need to make the simplest switching current stabilizer for 12v running lights for a car with your own hands, then we bring to your attention several schemes.

On Krenka

To make the simplest car switching current stabilizer at home, you need a 12v chip. For these purposes, lm317 is perfect. Such a voltage regulator 12 in lm317 is considered adjustable and is able to function with currents of the on-board network up to one and a half amperes. In this case, the input voltage indicator can be up to 40 volts, lm317 is able to dissipate power up to 10 watts. But this is possible only if the thermal regime is observed.

In general, the current consumption of lm317 is relatively small - in the region of 8 miles of amps, and this figure almost never changes. Even if a different current passes through the lm317 roll or the input voltage indicator changes. As you can understand, the 12 v lm317 stabilizer for the car's on-board network makes it possible to maintain a constant voltage on the R3 component.

By the way, this indicator can be adjusted through the use of the R2 element, but the limits will be insignificant. In the lm317 device, the R3 component is the driving current device. Since the lm317 resistance indicator always remains at the same level, the current that passes through it will also be stable (video by Denis T).

As for the input roll lm317, the current on them will be 8 miles amps higher. Using the above scheme, you can develop the simplest voltage regulator for a car's DRL. Such a device can be used as a device electronic load, current source for recharging the battery and other purposes. It should be noted that integrated devices with a current of 3A or less respond quite quickly to various changes in momentum. As for the disadvantages, such devices are characterized by too high resistance, as a result of which powerful components will have to be used.

On two transistors

Quite common today are stabilizers for the on-board network of a 12v car on two transistors. One of the main disadvantages of such a device is the poor current stability if changes in the supply voltage occur. However, this scheme for the on-board network of a 12v car is suitable for many tasks.


Below you can see the scheme itself. In this case, the device that distributes the current is the resistor R2. When this indicator increases, the voltage on this element increases accordingly. In the event that the indicator is from 0.5 to 0.6 volts, the VT1 component opens. When opened, this device will close the VT2 element, as a result of which the current that passes through VT2 will begin to decrease. When developing a circuit, you can use a Mosfet field effect transistor together with VT2.

As for the VD1 component, it is used for a voltage of 8 to 15 volts and is needed if its level is too high and the transistor may be impaired. If the transistor is powerful, then the voltage indicator in the auto network can be about 20 volts. It must be remembered that the Mosfet transistor opens when the gate voltage indicator is 2 volts. If you use a universal rectifier for battery charging or other tasks, then the transistor and resistor R1 will be enough for you.

On an operational amplifier (on an op-amp)


The option of assembling a device with a special error amplifier for cars is relevant if you need to develop a device that works over a wide range. AT this case R7 will perform the function of a current-setting element. Operational magnifier DA2.2 allows you to increase the voltage level in volts of the current-setting element. The DA 2.1 device is designed to compare the level of the reference parameter. Remember that this 3a device circuit needs additional power, which must be supplied to the XP2 connector. The voltage level in volts should be enough to ensure the functionality of the elements of the entire system.

The device for the car must be supplemented with a generator, in our case this function is performed by the REF198 element, which is characterized by an output voltage level of 4 volts. The circuit itself is quite expensive, so if necessary, you can install a roll instead. In order to make the adjustment correctly, you should set the slider of the resistor R1 to the upper position, and using the R3 element, the desired current value of 3a is set. To prevent excitation, components R2, C2 and R4 are used.

On a switching regulator chip


In some cases, a car device must operate not only in a wide range of loads, while having a high coefficient useful action. Then the use of compensation devices will not be appropriate, instead of them, impulse elements are used.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with one of the most common schemes MAX771, its features are as follows:

  • reference voltage level - 1.5 volts;
  • the efficiency at a load of 10 miles of amperes to 1 ampere will be about 90%;
  • the power indicator is from 2 to 16.5 volts;
  • the output power reaches 15 watts (the author of the video is Andrey Kanaev).

What is the stabilization procedure? The components R1 and R2 are the divisors of the output indicators of the circuit. When the level of the divided voltage becomes greater than the reference, the device automatically reduces the output parameter. In the reverse process, the device will increase this indicator. You can get a working stabilized current source if the circuits are changed in such a way that the system as a whole will respond to the output parameter.

If the load on the device is not particularly large, that is, less than 1.5 volts, the microcircuit will function as a working stabilizer. But when this parameter starts to increase sharply, the device will switch to stabilization mode. Mounting the resistor R8 is necessary only when the load level is too high and is more than 16 volts.

As for the R3 element, it is current-distributing. One of the main disadvantages of this option is the too high load drop across the above resistor. If you want to get rid of this minus, then in order to increase the signal, you must additionally install an operational amplifier.

Conclusion

In this article, we looked at several options for stabilizing devices for cars. Of course, such schemes can always be upgraded if necessary, contributing to an increase in performance, etc. Keep in mind that if you need to, you can always use specially designed microcircuits as a regulator. Also, if possible, you can independently produce sufficiently powerful regulatory components, but such options are more relevant in order to solve certain problems.

As you can see, the development of a circuit is a rather complicated and painstaking task; you cannot just approach it without having the appropriate experience. The lack of certain skills will not allow you to get the desired result. To make such a scheme for a car with your own hands, you must carefully follow all the steps described above.

Video "Device for powering LEDs"

How to make a stabilizer at home to power lamps in a car or for other purposes - learn from the video (the author of the video is Grandfather Xin).

LEDs don't like voltage fluctuations, that's a fact. They do not like it because LEDs behave differently from lamps or others. linear devices. Their current varies depending on the voltage non-linearly, therefore, for example, a twofold increase in voltage increases the current through the LEDs by far not 2 times. Because of what they overheat, quickly degrade and fail.

Most automotive diodes have built-in resistors that are rated for 12 volts. But the voltage of the car's on-board network is never 12 volts (except with a discharged battery), plus everything, it is far from being as stable as we would like. If you use inexpensive Chinese diode devices in a car without first stabilizing them, they will start flashing quickly enough and then stop shining altogether.

So I ran into such a problem - the LEDs in the dimensions began to blink, since I was once too lazy to stabilize them.

There are many ready-made stabilizer circuits for 12-volt devices. Most often, on the shelves you can find the KR142EN8B chip or similar ones. This microcircuit is designed for current up to 1.5A, but for a greater effect, you need to turn it on using input and output capacitors.

The standard circuit involves the use of 0.33 and 0.033uF capacitors (if memory serves). But personally, I decided to turn on using 4 capacitors: 470uF and 0.47uF at the input and, accordingly, 10 times less capacitance at the output. I don’t remember anymore, but somewhere on the forums I met just such an inclusion, I decided to apply it.

So that all this can be easily implemented in a car, I decided to solder all the elements directly onto the microcircuit.

Microcircuit with elements

Microcircuit with elements

In addition to capacitors, two wires are soldered to the microcircuit, respectively, input and output. The mass will come through the chip mount. The middle leg of the microcircuit is used only for the legs of the capacitors. I did not remove the wire from it, since it is combined with the circuit case.
For the strength of the whole structure, I decided to fill it all with glue, then wrap it in heat shrink.

Microcircuits

Chip and heat shrink

Finished stabilizers

In the car, you can mount it through a self-tapping screw to the body.

Attached stabilizer

The post does not pretend to be something super-mega technological, but you never know who can come in handy 🙂

Switching scheme

Instead of KR142EN8B, you can use L7812CV, the switching circuit is similar. If you look at standard scheme and compare with mine, then the questions arise “why exactly such containers?”.

I explain: the regular switching circuit implies only voltage stabilization, but does not save from a (short-term) voltage drop, therefore electrolytes of a sufficiently large capacity were introduced into the circuit to smooth out such drawdowns.

In theory, of course, the battery in the car should play the role of a voltage drop filter, but sometimes there are drawdowns that the battery simply does not have time to catch. For example, when a spark is applied to a spark plug, a rather large current passes through the coil, which perfectly drains the voltage in the on-board network.

Almost all motorists are familiar with such a problem as quick exit failure of LED lamps. Which are often placed in side lights, daytime running lights (DRLs) or other lights.
Typically these LED lamp have low power and current consumption. What exactly is the reason for their choice.
By itself, the LED easily serves in optimal conditions for more than 50,000 hours, but in a car, especially in a domestic one, it is sometimes not enough for a month. First, the LED starts to flicker, and then it burns out altogether.

What explains this?

The lamp manufacturer writes the marking "12V". This is the optimal voltage at which the LEDs in the lamp operate almost at maximum. And if you apply 12 V to this lamp, then it will last at maximum brightness for a very long time.
So why does it burn out in the car? Initially, the voltage of the car's on-board network is 12.6 V. An overestimation of 12 is already visible. And the voltage of the network of a running car can reach up to 14.5 V. Let's add to all this various jumps from switching powerful lamps high or low beam, powerful voltage pulses and magnetic interference when starting the engine from the starter. And we won't get the best best network for powering LEDs, which, unlike incandescent lamps, are very sensitive to all differences.
Since often in simple Chinese lamps there are no limiting elements, except for a resistor, the lamp fails due to overvoltage.
During my practice, I have changed dozens of such lamps. Most of them did not serve even a year. In the end, I got tired and decided to look for a simpler way out.

A simple voltage regulator for LEDs

To ensure comfortable operation for LEDs, I decided to make a simple stabilizer. Absolutely not difficult, any motorist can repeat it.
All we need:
  • - a piece of textolite for the board,
Look like that's it. All equipment costs a penny on Ali Express - links in the list.

Stabilizer circuit


The circuit is taken from the datasheet for the L7805 chip.


It's simple - on the left is the entrance, on the right is the exit. Such a stabilizer can withstand up to 1.5 A of load, provided that it is installed on a radiator. Naturally, for small bulbs, no radiator is needed.

Assembling a stabilizer for LEDs

All that is needed is to cut out the desired piece from the textolite. There is no need to etch the tracks - I cut out simple lines with a regular screwdriver.
Solder all the elements and you're done. Does not need setting.



In the role of the body is a thermal blower.
Another advantage of the scheme is that it is fashionable to use the body of a car as a radiator, since the central terminal of the microcircuit housing is connected to a minus.


That's all, the LEDs no longer burn out. I drive more than a year and forgot about this problem, which I advise you.