History of bags. How did the bag and its history. For sports, leisure and travel

A fashion accessory and a faithful companion of women, a bag has not always been a cult item and a status item, which it is today. This practical accessory is so important that it deserves to trace the history of its origin. Historians say that the history of women's bags began with a pocket-pouch, which was a separate accessory and was attached to the belt of men's and women's clothing. They were used to store and carry money and various little things.

Since the 14th century, the bag-pocket began to perform not only a practical function, but also became a decoration of the costume. Today they are made from a wide variety of materials; the shape and size of bags often changes in accordance with the arrival of a new fashion. There are male and female models. In the Middle Ages, women, as a rule, wore wide skirts, in the numerous folds of which it was easy to hide the first pocket bags. Later they began to be attached to the belt with a chain or cord. The accessory was called "Omonier". At the Burgundian court in the 14th and 15th centuries, the omonière was part of the court toilet. The quality and finish of the handbag were an indicator of the lady's status: the higher the position in society, the more expensive materials and finishes (gold threads, pearls, silk, precious stones) were used in tailoring.

By the 17th century, the representatives of the stronger sex ceased to use bags, as pockets appeared on men's trousers. They say that Louis XIV himself was the first to think of replacing a bag with a pocket, because it was on his clothes that the first pocket appeared. As for women's bags, they have become even more diverse and refined. From the Rococo era until the 19th century, women wore richly decorated, embroidered, knitted and woven pouches.

The year of birth of the first handbag, which began to be carried in the hand, is considered to be 1790. The Marquise de Pompadour is considered to be the trendsetter of the new fashion. At that time, a trapezoid-shaped women's bag made of textiles on a long pulling silk cord appeared. The product was decorated with embroidery, beads, lace and other things. The accessory has become an integral part of the ladies' toilet. Ladies kept smelling salt, perfume, and a handkerchief in their handbags.

In the 19th century, handbags increased somewhat in size and took on a wide variety of forms. They have additional departments. A frame lock appeared for the first time in a ladies' accessory. A bag with such a clasp is called a reticule.

Bags began to be classified according to their purpose: for walks, celebrations, visits, dates, trips to the theater and other occasions. They were decorated with pearls, embroidery, ribbons and other things.

By the mid-1850s, with the development of railroads and cruise ships, people began to travel a lot. There was a need to transport things in more functional and capacious items. Companies began to produce luggage bags. Suitcases from Louis Vuitton have become very popular. The bag became widespread: it was used for travel by men and women (it was first created from tapestry fabric by Pierre Godillot in France in 1826).

Most of the classic bags known today were invented by the famous saddlery houses of Paris in the late 19th century.

Louis Vuitton's "steamer bag", created in 1901, was the forerunner of the tote bag. An updated version of this model remains in production to this day.

In 1932, Gaston-Louis Vuitton, at the request of a champagne manufacturer, created the Noé bag, which was designed to carry exactly five bottles of champagne. Later, she became the prototype for all modern models of bags-bags (bucket bag)

Emil Maurice Hermès has managed to transform saddlebags into elegant travel accessories.

All sports bags, including the 1980 Adidas tennis bag and the 1990 Prada bowling bag, were inspired by the Bolide created by Hermes in 1923. The Plume bag created by Hermes in 1933 was based on the design of horse blankets.

The phrase “handbag” itself came into use around the 19th century and meant a small bag for traveling, and from the end of the 19th century in Britain, this name spread to a handbag worn by the handles or, later, on the shoulder.

In 1923, the first fastener was invented. And a little later - "lightning", which is still the most popular option today. Bags were made of leather and velvet, decorated with embroidery and fringe. The Art Deco style is in vogue. In those days, many archaeological discoveries were made, and the Egyptian style came into fashion. In addition, designers began to draw inspiration from other ethnic motifs - for example, African ones. And these patterns have become part of the decor of fashionable handbags.

Minaudière handbags, made by the famous jewelry firm Van Cleef & Arpels, are another sign of Art Deco style. Minaudière became an indispensable accessory for a lady from high society, which spoke of her high status. A distinctive feature of the minaudière is the precious stones and metals that are used in its creation.

Experiments with the form began. At the end of the 30s, the design of bags began to reflect the spirit of surrealism and eccentricity. The designer who managed to embody this spirit best of all was Elsa Schiaparelli. She designed a black velvet handbag in the shape of a phone with an embroidered gold dial. This idea was suggested to her by the legendary artist Salvador Dali. She also created bags in the form of an apple, an inverted bouquet, etc.

In the 50s, small, stylish, and (due to the advent of new technologies) often completely transparent bags came into fashion. During this period, the trend to wear small handbags was promoted by the elegant and feminine style of Christian Dior New Look. Starting in the 1950s, everyone began to create expensive branded bags.

The 1950s became the boundary between functional bags and bags as a status item. In 1956, Hermes released the Kelly bag. This model existed as early as 1892 and was used as a saddle bag, evolving into an everyday women's bag in the 1930s. A photo of newly crowned movie star Grace Kelly, which was published in Life magazine, played a direct role in popularizing the Kelly bag. In the photo, she covered her slightly rounded tummy from paparazzi lenses with a bag. The handbag instantly became the object of desire of all fashionistas and officially received the name "Kelly Bag", this is how the cult of the bag is born.

Hermes created another iconic Birkin bag in 1981 after British actress and singer Jane Birkin spilled the contents of her Kelly bag on a plane. They say that Jean-Louis Dumas Hermes, the chairman of the board of Hermes, sat next to her, who (after thinking about what had happened) three years later created a comfortable bag especially for her. The new accessory was called "Birkin", and since then it has become an indispensable status symbol.

In 1955, Chanel created her famous "2.55" quilted bag. The name of the bag "2.55" reflects the month and year of creation: February 1955. Koko was very observant; she saw that women's handbags, which women wore, holding under their arms or in their hands, did not give them freedom of action. Chanel replaced the handles of the handbag with chains of flat links or links intertwined with strips of leather. This model could already be worn on the shoulder, the hands became free. The Chanel 2.55 handbag has become a model of functionality: it has pockets for a mirror, lipstick and powder boxes, a special compartment closed from prying eyes and an external pocket in which you can store theater tickets and small bills.

In our dynamically developing age, the fashion for bags is changing as rapidly as for any other items of clothing.

Recently, this wardrobe item caused serious battles on Gossip. But the fact remains - the bag is a piece of clothing! Therefore, I propose to talk a little about the history of the bag.
According to historians, a woman's handbag began with a pocket. The first pockets appeared on the camisole of Louis XIV. And later they settled down on vests and trousers.
In the past, coins were carried in pouches. Men - on the belt, and women - under the skirt. The novelty in clothes in the form of pockets suited men quite well, and they began to be content with them. Women, taking the idea of ​​a pocket as a basis, began to invent handbags. At first, women wore small pouches to store small items in them. But even then, these handbags had different shapes and decorations, and were made of various materials. In Burgundy, at the court, bags were part of the court toilet and were called "aumoniers". In those distant times, entire collections of handbags-bags were created. And since they were attached to the belt with a cord, walking was accompanied by the sound of coins. In the 17th century, women began to decorate handbags with beads and glass beads. Restless in fiction, women decorated bags with embroidery, knitted or wove pouches-pouches (reticules). By changing the look of pouches, women no longer hide them under a skirt or in pockets. they wanted to show their beautiful handbags to the whole world. So the history of fashion for handbags has changed.
In the next century, handbags made of fabric, decorated with lace, appeared. They were called "pompadour" in memory of the mistress of the French king - Louis XV. Rich ladies competed in making the brightest and most catchy handbag. In the same 18th century, secret pockets appeared, sewn into the side seams of skirts and trousers. When tight and long skirts appeared, the place for pockets disappeared. And then there were a variety of bags. On a long handle so that you can hang it on your shoulder. Big size to put more in it. And so on. This is how handbags appeared, which are the prototype of our modern bags. As men joke, a women's bag is an analogue of a men's garage (some people manage to lose the most unexpected things in their bag, as often happens with men in the garage). Naturally, women could not limit themselves to a small pouch under their skirt, if you can have a more capacious and practical bag.
The legendary Birkin bag According to legend, the history of the creation of the iconic bag began in the cabin of an aircraft. By a lucky chance, the model, actress and singer Jane Birkin had a neighbor on the plane with the head of Hermes. Jane complained to her neighbor that she couldn't find a comfortable bag for herself. “I will make you a bag that you will never part with,” the neighbor promised her. So in 1984 the legendary Birkin bag was born. According to another (less romantic) version, the sketch of the bag was invented and sketched by the actress herself. She accidentally dropped the sketches and a Hermes representative helped her pick them up. He suggested that the actress make a bag and give her the name Birkin. Why is this bag so famous? It is made of calf or crocodile leather, resistant to scratches, but soft and pleasant to the touch. Accessories are made of gold or palladium. This bag has a lock that can be locked with a key. The bag itself is very expensive, worth a fortune. The average price of a Birkin bag reaches $27,000. However, those who want to get it can wait their turn for two to five years.
Such a high price means not only the impeccable quality of the bag. By buying this bag, people are buying a legend. The appearance of the envelope bag dates back to the 20s of the 20th century. And by the beginning of the Second World War, there was a wide variety of bags for the car, suitcases and briefcases, originating from the usual travel bag. After the war, they began to wear large bags and mainly on the belt. The famous designer Christian Dior, along with feminine forms of clothing, also offered bags of a different kind - with draperies and all kinds of other decorations. The emergence of youth fashion has dramatically changed the style of bags. Now the bags have acquired the features of a sporty style. Now fashion offers a very large selection of bags of different shapes, sizes and for various purposes.
Such a variety is understandable - bags should fit into the general style of clothing, and be comfortable for people with a wide variety of tastes, and there are a great many of them. Well, just a photo of bags, good and different :)





Thanks to all!

Sometimes fashion trends develop into trends that accompany us for several seasons in a row.

The most convenient and comfortable of them are recognized on a planetary scale. Agree, bell sleeves didn’t suit everyone, but over the knee boots have been holding leading positions for many years in a row. A similar story happened with the waist bag. After all, it is difficult to overestimate the ability to carry all the most important things with you, but at the same time have free hands.

Now the belt bag has turned into a trendy accessory, however, initially it served only for utilitarian purposes.

Archaeologists have found the ancestors of modern waist bags in Egypt and ancient Greece. They carried small items necessary for daily needs, for example, tools.

Bags, which, perhaps, it would not be a shame to wear today, appeared in the XIV century, during the Renaissance.

Then the belt bag looked like a hanging purse and was called "Omonier" (Aumônière). Representatives of the upper strata of society ordered omoniers from expensive fabrics with luxurious embroidery or leather trimmed with fur. They carried coins, perfumes, scarves in such bags.

It was possible to attach several omonieres to the belt at once. By the way, at that time they themselves did not have a strap: a belt from clothes was threaded through the holes in the bag.

Commoners also wore waist bags, but they were made of simple, durable materials to securely hold much more prosaic items on their belts.

You look, a small bag on the belt would have remained just “one of ...”, if not for the 90s of the twentieth century.

The decade adored by designers has many recognizable features - grunge, linen style, chokers. There is also a waist bag on this list. Then everyone fell in love with her: party-goers, skateboarders, busy moms and Hollywood stars.

In our homeland, a belt bag has its own special flair: in the 90s, not a single shuttle could do without it, the seller of Turkish terry bathrobes in the market or the currency exchanger at the exchanger - it was convenient to put money in the bag. A solid foundation was laid, and over time, a bag on the belt appeared in every second.

Something similar to an epidemic has been going on for the last two years. Fashion brands compete to see who will release a "hot pie", and street fashion stars - no matter what unexpected bow they come up with. Belt bags have become an order of magnitude more luxurious than their predecessors, and they are most often worn not on the hips, but on the waist or even as a crossbody.

The daredevils, as always, set the trend themselves: Jared Leto drove all fashionistas and fashionistas crazy back in 2014 with his favorite fanny pack (and biceps).

This spring, in my opinion, the best belt bags from Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu - everything you need will fit.

The history of the appearance of bags has about six thousand years. Which is not surprising, since at all times people needed to store and carry money and various little things in something. Scientists believe that the first bags were actually pockets, clothes with which appeared in the 17th century. They were decorated with camisoles, vests, and after a while, trousers.

Although long before the appearance of pockets on clothes, coins or other necessary accessories were stored in bags. Women preferred to wear them under a skirt (in our time, ladies continue to hide money in places hidden from prying eyes), and men hung them on their belts. In the Middle Ages, such bags were called "good pockets" or "omoniers". In addition to them, they often carried small leather bags for small coins. They were the decoration of the court toilet.

In the 15th-16th centuries, the fashion for bags took a step further, they were already made in different sizes - from the smallest to the most capacious. When walking, the coins in them rang, so that by the sound it was possible to determine the viability of their owner. When pockets appeared, the men moved all the contents of their bags into them and felt quite comfortable. Women, on the other hand, did not have enough pockets, so they began to carry bags, handbags, where they put all the necessary little things. Already in those days, such bags were sewn from different fabrics, differing in shape and finish. They were embroidered with beads, decorated with embroidery and glass beads. Woven and knitted reticules appeared. They stopped hiding bags and began to actively demonstrate them as a decoration, an element of a toilet.

In the 18th century, pompadour lace handbags came into fashion, as they were named after the favorite of King Louis XV. They were bags with a round bottom, the neck of which was tightened with braid. Along with the pompadour, hidden pockets that were sewn into skirts come into fashion.

When did this accessory appear in its usual form? The history of the emergence of modern bags begins during the French Revolution (late 18th - early 19th century), when a new fashion was born, according to which women had to keep their pocket bags in their hands, and men had to keep their hands in their pockets. This innovation has led to the fact that the representatives of the weaker sex no longer need pockets, coins, bags and other similar items. All this was replaced by a small handbag, which they carried in their hand.

At this time there was no large-scale production of bags. They were made by individual craftsmen, usually to order. But the situation has changed over time. So, from the middle to the end of the 19th century, during the reign of Queen Victoria of Great Britain, factories for the production of bags were opened (as an example: Hermès and Louis Vuitton). From this period they began to be produced in large quantities. At the same time, handmade bags continued to be valued above industrial designs, but only very wealthy people could afford them, since the cost was quite high.

In the 19th century, locks began to be made on bags, but the zippers that are common today appeared only in the 20th century. At the same time, the rules of good manners required that the color of the handbag match the other accessories in the suit, so it was quite difficult to choose the right one. Strict bags of regular geometric shapes are considered classics, moreover, they are quite versatile.

The twentieth century finally and unconditionally recognized handbags, as well as trousers in the women's wardrobe, short skirts and haircuts. On October 4th, the UK even celebrates a special holiday - National Bag Day.

The position of a woman in society has changed dramatically, and, perhaps, therefore, given the new needs of women, large bags began to appear. The fashion for this wardrobe item has always changed rapidly - either miniature handbags on a thin strap or chain are popular, or, on the contrary, large ones.

Historians claim that the history of women's bags began with a pocket. For the first time, pockets appeared in the 17th century on the camisole of Louis XIV, later they were located on the vest, and then they appeared on trousers.

Before this happy time, coins were worn in pouches. For men, they hung on the belt, and for women - under the skirt (it is interesting that in our time, women began to hide money in another secluded place). After the appearance of pockets, men began to be content with them, and women began to "develop" the bag line. They wore small handbags, for storing small items. Even then, these bags were made of various materials, had different shapes and decorations.

In the Middle Ages, money was put into “good pockets” (Gurteltasche), which was attached to the belt, and along with it, a leather pouch for small money was also attached to the belt. In the XIV-XV centuries. these "pockets" were worn by both men and women. At the Burgundian court, they were part of the court toilet - they were called "aumoniers".

During the late Gothic period, entire collections of bags of various shapes and sizes were created. They were worn on a cord and at the waist, and walking was thus accompanied by the melody of a coin chime.
In the 17th century, women began to wear embroidered, knitted, wicker, richly decorated with beads and glass beads. pouch bags (reticules). Fashion has changed radically, and bags are no longer hidden in pockets and under the skirt - they sought to show the whole world.
In the 18th century, handbags made of fabric or lace appeared, they were called "pompadour" in memory of the mistress of the French king Louis XV. Wealthy ladies competed in the manufacture of elaborate handbags. At the same time, women's clothing had hidden pockets sewn into the side seams of the skirts.

1790 is considered the year the birth of a bag to be carried in the hand. This is due to the French Revolution and the new women's fashion. The innovation was a success, and a few years later, since 1804, the rules of good manners are attributed to men to keep their hands in their pockets, and to women - pockets (that is, bags) in their hands. Thus, the androgenicity of the pocket, belt pouch and coin purse was lost - and the woman learned to leave the house holding a small handbag.

The Victorian era saw the birth of the mass-produced industrial handbags. The first companies appeared, such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton. However, homemade bags and, so to speak, piece items remained more popular for a long time, because the middle class could not always afford a brocade or leather bag made of English or Spanish leather.
Locks on bags appeared in the 19th century, and zippers were invented in 1923. .
Classic bags of strict geometric shapes are still considered universal. And picking them up today is much easier than in the days of Grace Kelly: then the rules of decency required that the bag must match in color or at least in shade with shoes, gloves, a scarf and other accessories.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, the women's handbag was finally legalized along with trousers, cropped skirts and short haircuts, and the history of great bags began. Not without reason in the UK there is National Bag Day - October 4th.

And (hooray!) the size of the bags began to increase rapidly. Fashionistas began to acquire big handbags on a long strap or chain strap. And soon hard handbags appeared, which are the prototype of our modern bags. Various materials were used: satin and silk, tapestries and leather, wood and glass, iron and plastic, and straw.

Museums of bags

There is even a Handbag Museum in Tokyo, which has more than 3,000 exhibits brought from all over the world. The visitors are presented with bags of various sizes and purposes - from tobacco pouches to ladies' handbags.

As men joke, a women's bag is an analogue of a men's garage (everything is there!). That is why women could not limit themselves to a small bag under their skirt, they preferred more spacious and practical bags, the abundance of which we observe today.
(Sources: School of life. Photo of bags - Vintage site)

From Crocheted Bags and Purses (Crochet bags and purses), 1917.
From Crocheted and Knitted Bags (Crochet Bags), 1935.
From the magazine "Mary Lamb Bags" (Mary Lamb Bags), 1940.